Simple Project : a Coaster with Charts and Written Instructions
There are basically 2 ways to write down knitting patterns. You can use words, or charts. This project will show you how you can use either method to accomplish the same thing.
You will use the same skills as you learned in the wristband and false-cable projects, and you will also practice these additional techniques:
- reading standard knitting abbreviations in written instructions
- reading a charted design
- make-one increases
- slip, slip, knit decrease
- blocking a finished project
For the blocking, you will also need a few pins, a towel or cushion, and maybe an iron
Explanation of abbreviations:
The letters are a short form of what to do, so
m= make one. In this case, make a backwards loop, just as if you were casting on.
k = knit,
p = purl,
k2tog = knit 2 stitches together,
sl = the stitch to the right needle without working it'
ssk= slip a stitch knitwise, slip another stitch knitwise, then put them back on left needle. Kit them both together through the back loop.
The numbers after the letters tell you how many times to do that thing. So, sl1= slip one stitch, k5= knit five stitches, etc. Sometimes you will see parentheses like this:
(k1, p2, t2tog) twice or sometimes it will be written like this (k1, p2, t2tog) x2
This means you do all the things in the parentheses, and then you repeat them again the number of times it says. In this case, twice.
Here are the written instructions for a coaster:
Cast on 5 stitches
Row1: sl1, k1, m1, k1, m1, k2
Row 2: sl1, knit across
Row 3: sl1, k1, m1, k3, m1, k2
Row 4: sl1, knit across
Row 5: sl1, k1, m1, k5, m1, k2
Row 6: sl1, knit across
Row 7: sl1, k1, m1, k7, m1, k2
Row 8: sl1, k3, p5, k4
Row 9: Sl1, k3, m1, k5, m1, k4
Row 10: sl1, k3, p7, k4
Row 11: sl1, k3, m1, k7, m1, k4
Row 12: Sl1, k3, p9, k4
Row 13: sl1, k3, m1, k9, m1, k4
Row 14: sl1, k3, p11, k4
Row 15: sl1, k3, m1, k11, m1, k4
Row 16, 18, and 20: sl1, k3, p13, k4
Row 17 and 19: sl1, knit across
Row 21: sl1, k2, ssk, k11, k2tog, k3
Row 22: sl1, k3, p11, k4
Row 23: sl1, k2, ssk, k9, k2tog, k3
Row 24: sl1, k3, p9, k4
Row 25: sl1, k2, ssk, k7, k2tog, k3
Row 26: sl1, k3, p7, k4
Row 27: sl1, k2, ssk, k5, k2tog, k3
Row 28: sl1 , k3, p5, k4
Row 29: sl1, k1, k2tog, k5, k2tog, k2
Row 30: sl1, knit across
Row 31: sl1, k1, k2tog, k3, k2tog, k2Coaster chart
Row 32: sl1, knit across
Row 33: sl1, k1, k2tog, k1, k2tog, k2
Row 34: ssl1, knit across
Row 35: sl2, (k2tog) twice, k1
Bind off. Weave in the ends. You will notice that it is quite curly. Blocking is what makes it nice and flat. Most larger projects and some small ones like this, recommend that you block the work when you have finished.
| Don't worry, this is perfectly normal |
This is what the same pattern looks like charted.
Charts tell you exactly the same thing as written instructions, but with a picture. Each square in the chart is one stitch. at the bottom, there is a description of what to do for each square. Because this project has a definite right and wrong side, the instructions tell you what to do for each side.
Charts are read from the bottom up. In this example, you read each line starting from the side that has a number next to it. So, line one starts on the right, and line 2 starts on the right. In this chart, the first row is the cast on row.
To steam-block your coaster, gently stretch it out and pin it to a cushion. Cover it with a damp washcloth, and the gently apply a hot iron over the washcloth. You don't need to shmush it, just use the iron to create steam in the wash cloth for a few seconds. The less pressure the better. Remove the iron and the washcloth. Leave the coaster on the cushion until it is cool and dry before unpinning it.
To wet-block your coaster, get it soaking wet. Squeeze out as much water as you can, but don't wring it. Lay the coaster on a dry towel or cushion, and gently re-shape it. You can pin it down if you like. Leave it until it is thoroughly dry before removing it.
| I could have done this better. You get the idea. |

Comments
Post a Comment